The style of a man’s clothes grows out of the style of the man himself, as an individual, rather than the other way around. A man has to understand himself before he can understand his style.
People’s lives having changed, and there being less rigor in dress, people feel more free not to follow the customs that existed once upon a time. Everything is – don’t misunderstand me, but – a little more vulgar. Because unfortunately, often when one goes beyond some form of rigor, one ends up in the ridiculous, the obvious, and the banal.
For a woman, one day she wears something, the next day she throws it out. For men instead, some things remain. Things that are chosen with care.
“‘At least make sure the damn thing fits.’ Any jacket, handmade or bargain basement, must pass the ‘collar test.’ Put on the jacket and raise your arms. The back of the jacket collar should hug the back of the shirt collar like Velcro. A particularly ill-fitting jacket will show a gap between collars even with the arms lowered. The key is a high armhole. You may have to try on 50 jackets before you find the right one. Shattuck advises customers to watch Robert De Niro in Goodfellas, specifically the scene in which Bobby D. kicks a rival’s head like a soccer ball. Arms flailing overhead, the collar doesn’t budge. That’s tailoring.”— Rene Chun on bespoke tailor Frank Shattuck. You can see the Goodfellas scene that Mr. Shattuck references here. The violence is disturbing, but the tailoring is admittedly pretty impressive. (via putthison)