“Earn mentors, respect them, learn from them. If you want to know about clothing, put down the book, turn off the computer. Find a great tailor and commission what you can. Ask their advice, with humility, and keep your ears open. Be a patron of these great artists that still exist, and what you will get back for your hard earned dollars will be much more than cloth and thread, leather and nail.”—The Armoury’s Ethan Newton On the importance of mentors.
“Are you dressing for yourself? You have to find out who you are and wear something that makes you comfortable versus ‘I’m going to play dress up.’ Do you really keep your gloves in that pocket all the time or is it only during Fashion Week?”—Michael Hainey (via howtotalktogirlsatparties)
The style of a man’s clothes grows out of the style of the man himself, as an individual, rather than the other way around. A man has to understand himself before he can understand his style.
People’s lives having changed, and there being less rigor in dress, people feel more free not to follow the customs that existed once upon a time. Everything is – don’t misunderstand me, but – a little more vulgar. Because unfortunately, often when one goes beyond some form of rigor, one ends up in the ridiculous, the obvious, and the banal.
For a woman, one day she wears something, the next day she throws it out. For men instead, some things remain. Things that are chosen with care.
“‘At least make sure the damn thing fits.’ Any jacket, handmade or bargain basement, must pass the ‘collar test.’ Put on the jacket and raise your arms. The back of the jacket collar should hug the back of the shirt collar like Velcro. A particularly ill-fitting jacket will show a gap between collars even with the arms lowered. The key is a high armhole. You may have to try on 50 jackets before you find the right one. Shattuck advises customers to watch Robert De Niro in Goodfellas, specifically the scene in which Bobby D. kicks a rival’s head like a soccer ball. Arms flailing overhead, the collar doesn’t budge. That’s tailoring.”— Rene Chun on bespoke tailor Frank Shattuck. You can see the Goodfellas scene that Mr. Shattuck references here. The violence is disturbing, but the tailoring is admittedly pretty impressive. (via putthison)